An exquisite blend of seasoned rice with the freshest and finest fish, masterfully crafted in the palms of an experienced chef's hands - sushi is a Japanese delicacy loved by millions around the world. It is as rich in history as it is in taste, a cuisine indelibly linked to Japanese culture and tradition.

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f most stories begin with a particular time, place and person, then this one might begin with Yohei Hanaya who lived in 19th century Edo. It was in this city, later to become Tokyo, where Yohei hit upon an idea that enraptured the masses. Sometime in the mid-1800s, when this former servant had risen to become a shop owner, Yohei began serving his customers raw fish placed on balls of vinegar rice. This novel way of serving fish caught fresh from the harbour spread with great popularity through Edo's restaurants and outdoor food stalls. The rest, it could be said, is history.

However while Yohei Hanaya might be the father of this contemporary style of sushi, called nigiri-zushi, the delicacy was initially developed several centuries earlier and - surprisingly - beyond the borders of Japan. Also surprising is that its development owes more to practicality than popularity. Experts point to the islands of Southeast Asia where the people used rice as a means of fermenting fish, successfully preserving it for later consumption.

It was this food preservation method that eventually made its way to Japan. Here, during the Muromachi Period (1333-1573), vinegar was added to the mix to eliminate the wait for natural fermentation and to accentuate the sourness of the rice.

With its ancient roots taking on a more familiar and popular form in the 1800s, courtesy of Yohei Hanaya, many more years would pass to bring sushi to its current status as a culinary and cultural icon enjoyed around the world. Authentic sushi sampled at a respected restaurant is considered the jewel of Japanese food, while new ideas and a fusion of traditional styles ensures that this story is far from over.
When broken down, sushi is comprised of just two parts: the neta, which is the ingredient placed atop the rice; and the shari, the vinegar rice that draws out the flavours of the neta. Great care is taken when preparing the neta and shari, especially in an authentic sushi restaurant.

For the Japanese, authentic sushi represents the epitome of all native dishes. And when nigiri-zushi is prepared at an authentic sushi restaurant, it can come at a price to match its status. An upper-class sushi restaurant can charge several hundred dollars for just a couple of sushi if the neta chosen by the diner is particularly rare and prized.

 

However nigiri-zushi can also be enjoyed at the counter in a less formal manner, where diners typically choose their neta and chat to the chef as they eat. Customers can also order a platter for one, where the variety of sushi is pre-determined or selected by the chef on the basis of the best fish available. The price of the platters vary, based on the value of the neta used. The most expensive is the"松 matsu" class, with " 竹 take" and " 梅 ume" platters following.

The sushi go-round, where a tempting array of nigiri-zushi is paraded before restaurant patrons, has made this dish even more readily accessible to people of all means. Unlike authentic restaurants, these cheaper Japanese go-rounds are typically staffed by casual or part-time chefs. Diners are charged according to the colour and number of plates they select.

Although such mass production might invite the use of robotics in food preparation, studies have shown that top-class sushi chefs create a small bubble of air in the shari as they grip the rice - a secret to its superior taste. Currently there is no technology that can replicate this talent, nor can robots select fish for its quality.

Although the talent of a top sushi chef is unquestioned, there is no formal licence required to become one. Yet in keeping with an old saying, "Three years cooking rice, eight years gripping rice", it is generally acknowledged that at least 10 yearsﾕ training as an apprentice is required before becoming an independent sushi chef. Many such chefs are responsible for selecting their neta at the fish markets and establishing networks to source quality ingredients from throughout Japan and the rest of the world. Years of early mornings assessing many thousands of fish must be endured before a chef develops a well-trained eye.

The secrets to excellent nigiri-zushi lie in the selection and preparation of the neta (main ingredient) and rice (shari). Neta of fresh fish and shellfish can fetch what some might call preposterous prices around the world, but it can also include cooked fish or non-seafood ingredients. For example, mackerel is commonly served after its meat has been cured in vinegar. Conger is grilled or cooked in soy sauce while prawns can be eaten raw or boiled, depending on the species. An important neta commonly used by food experts to determine the skill of a sushi chef and the quality of a restaurant is the slightly sweetened rolled egg. This is conventionally part of a chefﾕs choice sushi platter.

Many believe what sets excellent sushi apart from the ordinary is the rice. Shari is the vinegar rice used in most types of sushi. In preparation, the accomplished chef pays particular attention to its temperature - it canﾕt be too cold on the tongue or too warm when eaten. Shari should also have the right texture - not too hard and not too soft. Shari is prepared by mixing vinegar, salt, sugar and mirin (sweet rice wine) with the rice, while the key is to cool the mixture rapidly using a paper fan. This evaporates excess moisture from the rice while locking in the vinegar aroma before it is lost to the heat.

Generally, a small portion of wasabi is dabbed between the neta and shari. Alternatively, the chef may place some wasabi on the sushi plate (a unique, platform-shaped wooden plate called geta). If wasabi is served in this fashion, the diner may dissolve a small amount in soy sauce or smear it directly on the neta. Those unfamiliar with wasabi might be surprised by its sensation until they get used to it. But once hooked, most diners can't go without it.

Sushi can be eaten using chopsticks, as you would with any other Japanese dish. However it is not considered bad manners to use your fingers. Once the sushi is served upon the geta, take it with your fingers or chopsticks and dab the neta into the small plate of soy sauce provided. It is important to touch the soy sauce with the neta (not with the shari) and to only touch it lightly, as the natural flavours of the neta should not be drowned in the sauce. Taking care not to drip, the sushi can be eaten in a mouthful.

 

On your geta, you will usually find thin ginger slices that have been pickled in sweet vinegar. These slices, called gari, have a crunchy, refreshing taste that is both acidic and sweet-and-sour in flavour. Gari helps to extinguish the smell of the fish, so eating some between sushi mouthfuls allows you to fully enjoy each one.

Sushi is the favoured delicacy of all Japan and continues to attract new lovers from across the world. Today it is an internationally known cuisine with its own regional styles, from the popular California rolls to other sushi creations using local ingredients. Despite some people's insistence that non-authentic sushi is not really"sushi", there is no question that the popularity of this dish lies in its simplicity and easy-to-replicate character.

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